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It’s a chilly spring day in Hamburg, Germany, and my boyfriend and I have just left our hotel en route to a place called Burger Lounge, which touts itself as a “Real American Diner.”
Immediately, we are confronted with a May Day protest filled with bearded hipsters and angry punks.
Two protesters hold up a banner declaring “No! In the Name of Humanity We Refuse to Accept a Fascist America.”
For a minute I’m embarrassed to be American, relieved that my leather jacket and black pants don’t scream that I’m an expat.
But the feeling passes, and 15 minutes of walking later, we are confronted with another banner, this one hanging outside a building and sending a quite different message.
It is advertising the Charles Bronson burger, a cartoonishly perfect-looking hamburger ensconced in a bun .
and inexplicably sitting atop a flaming grill. We’ve arrived at our destination.
There is no more iconic American food than the hamburger, which serves as shorthand for American cuisine worldwide and certainly in Germany.
where hamburgers are sometimes sold with American flags poking through the buns. The origins of the humble sandwich are murky.
but according to Andrew F. Smith, author of Hamburger:
A History, the hamburger’s main component — a ground beef patty — did originate in Hamburg.
In the 19th century, Hamburg was known for producing superb beef from its high-quality cows that grazed outside the city, says Smith.
One of the most popular preparations of the beef was to chop it up, season it.
and form it into patties, which were then usually grilled or fried.
Germans have been eating these beef patties, called frikadellen or buletten, since the mid-19th century, according to Carolyn Taratko, a visiting researcher at the Max Planck Institute for the History of Science in Berlin.
In the 1870s, the patty made its way to America, where it was dubbed a “Hamburg steak.”
There was one main difference between the American and German versions:
The American Hamburg steak was made from low-quality cuts of meat.
First only sold in German restaurants, the Hamburg steak didn’t transition from German specialty to American dish until the 1876 World’s Fair in Philadelphia.
It soon became a popular cheap menu item at restaurants.
“‘Hamburg steak’ sounded much more elegant than ‘ground beef,’” Smith says.
“It combined the cachet of foreignness with a word denoting a fine cut of quality beef.” Yet Hamburg steaks didn’t become a truly iconic American dish until somebody.
— who, exactly, is in debate — decided to place one of the ground-beef patties between two slices of bread in the early 1890s.
Smith says that the hamburger steak sandwich’s beginnings can be traced to industrialization:
Factory workers needed easy-to-eat food that they could munch on during their shifts.
so lunch carts that sold sandwiches as well as the Hamburg steak proliferated, and somebody decided to combine the two.
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“‘Hamburg steak’ sounded much more elegant than ‘ground beef,’” Smith says.
“It combined the cachet of foreignness with a word denoting a fine cut of quality beef.” Yet Hamburg steaks didn’t become a truly iconic American dish until somebody.
Factory workers needed easy-to-eat food that they could munch on during their shifts.
so lunch carts that sold sandwiches as well as the Hamburg steak proliferated, and somebody decided to combine the two.
Through the first years of the 20th century, hamburgers were considered poor people’s food,.
and the middle class was generally apprehensive; there was a pervasive idea that ground meat was spoiled.
But then White Castle started selling burgers in 1921, using the dish to create the country’s first fast-food restaurant. By the 1930s, hamburgers were popular across America.
and two decades later, in the 1950s, McDonald’s was king. The burger chain spread overseas, and in 1971 the golden arches arrived in Germany.
German burger restaurants have appropriated McDonald’s burgers and turned them into hipster dishes.
The “New York Style” burger restaurant the Bird (located in Berlin and Hamburg) serves a Big Mac homage they call the Big Crack.
described on its all-English Berlin menu as “Just like the burger in that other place but there is meat in it.”
The protesters marching in Hamburg streets would find themselves at home at the Bird, where a framed poster of Donald Trump with “fuck you puto” scrawled across his eyes .
and “Make America Hate Again” stamped in upper-case letters across the bottom immediately show the restaurant has a conflicted relationship with America.
Not every burger restaurant in Hamburg pays tribute to American pop culture. The restaurant Burgerlich wears its American influences lightly, without any Americana gracing its walls.
Burgerlich is sleek, modern, German. Customers order from iPad-like devices that emerge from their tables.
Although the burgers have most of the components of a traditional American burger — beef patty, ketchup, lettuce, tomato.
bun — they are not merely homages. The standard bun is brioche (although sesame is on offer).
No American cheese graces the menu.
There’s no better example of German-American cross-cultural exchange than Burgerlich’s Craut burger, an American-style burger topped with the classic German fermented cabbage slaw.
The hamburger has returned home.
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